Category: Travel

We said goodbye to our lovely hotel and pool in Erfoud and proceeded on to more adventures . We changed our bus to three 4×4 vehicles with very competent drivers. Before we headed off to the desert, we made two stops: one to see a fossil factory and another to visit a Berber lady who lives simply with her family.

Fossils in Morocco? Yes Prehistoric creatures lived here over 350 million years ago in a shallow sea that accumulated in the sea floor and were buried by sediment. Over the ages they were transformed into stone Devonian limestone, which can be seen in countertops and other items. This factory gets them from the quarries, polishes them and makes them into works of art.

And of course, we exit by the gift shop. These are precious artifacts, so I did do a bit of shopping here.

Our next visit was to a modest home of a Berber lady who described her life for us. This area is a ” different” Morocco, with only basic schooling and hospitals. The people here have no conception of a big city, unless they drive many miles.

Whenever we visit a household, we’re served the traditional mint tea. Normally the tea is made by a man, but this lady is a widow who lives with her children, so she makes the tea.She asked that her picture not be on Facebook, so I am respecting her privacy.

Her home consists of this main area, which is used as a living room and bedroom by night, as well as two other bedrooms and a very small kitchen.

We finally head off to the desert.
Ann and I are in a vehicle with Joy and Robert, and it is a wild and bumpy ride. At times we see no other vehicles and no roads, of course. How does he know where we are going?

We arrive at the camp. It is lovely, and much more civilized than I expected.

I feel like I am in a circus tent. It’s a funny feeling. The weather is HOT but much cooler than it was earlier in the week, in the low 100s.

There is also a shower; forgot to take photo. I was very happy to know that we have electricity, thanks to solar panels, There’s an indoor meeting area, shaded, and a dining room. OAT has another camp near by and the kitchen serves both camps.

We have lunch at the camp, then settle in for a few hours before venturing out late aftern to visit Mohammed, a former nomad who settled in to an area, found water, and created an oasis in the desert. He is completely uneducated but could teach a master class in gardening.

Our next activity was toasting the sunset. Sounded like a great idea. Mostafa lugged the wine glasses and we carried the bottles. The only problem? I didn’t know we would have to climb a mountain of sand to do it. Ann managed to get to the top; Mostafa helped a few of us – Linda from Florida and Andrea and me, bringing up the rear – to get to the second level. We were joined by young hawkers who wanted to sell us their wares. Mostafa uncorked my wine and carried a glass back up to Ann from our bottle. Mark joined us for a visit Andrea’s husband came down Joy and Robert were there.

It was quite the event, not to be missed.

We return to camp for a cooking lesson and a late dinner. The cook shows us how to make the tagine, with chicken on the bottom and vegetables on top. Our server says good night after we stagger to our beds. A few stay up to star gaze.

The next day we went camel riding, then visited a music school, did a little dancing, and visited a nomad and his family in his tent. Details will be forthcoming, possibly later today or in the middle of the night.

The birds are chirping and the sun is up. The weather will be nice. Another exciting day is about to begin.

We left beautiful Fez behind, as we climbed the Atlas Mountains to get to the desert for our next two nights at the desert camp. This is our last day of internet until Saturday.

Our journey yesterday began at 8:00 on the bus and we arrived at this lovely desert outpost at about 5:00 pm, with several surprises with our rest stops along the way The National Highway is a smooth two lane road.

It was a bit cool – in the 50s – when we arrived at our first stop, a fancy ski resort dubbed “little Switzerland.” Skiing in Morocco ? Who knew? Thanks to Linda from Florida for these photos, while I fought with an ATM machine. I won, but it left me no time for picture taking.

After we left Switzerland, we discovered another surprise: monkeys!

We took a little walk on the highway for fifteen minutes, just to stretch our legs and found a fellow traveler.

We had spectacular scenery on our drive. I did nap a little as well.

At our lunch stop, Mostafa showed us the map. Fez is at the top, and today’s destination is Erfoud, shown on the map as Arfoud. The Saraha camp at Mergouza.

Lunch was delicious we had the usual pureed vegetable soup, followed by trout or mixed grill.

These way stations are especially designed for travelers taking this trek, with many groups coming and going. Mostafa made sure we stayed ahead of the pack for a pleasant culinary experience.

Back on the bus! We did stop for photo ops as they came up.

We’re heading to the last leg of our journey.

We arrive at our destination

We’re greeted by musicians, given a welcoming tea and cookies, and get our room assignments. After we get in our rooms, we head off for the pool. The temperature is a bit over 100 but it is dry heat and doesn’t seem to bother me.

After our delicious buffet dinner, we’re given information about Thursday and Friday. No internet. Limited electricity. We spend the rest of the evening consolidating luggage and preparing for the Great Desert Adventure.

I’ll be in touch Saturday or Sunday.

As you can see, I’m enjoying the view of the pool as I type here. Dinner poolside is in an hour and the wifi doesn’t work in my room. I want to warn you that you may not hear for me for several days because tomorrow we leave for the desert. As we go further south, temperatures rise and wifi gets less reliable.

Yesterday we spent most of the day exploring the various sections of the huge old city historical district, where most of the people live. A local guide is needed to navigate the ins and outs of these mazes. Here are a few of my discoveries, taken among the hidden alleyways

We did have a break and ate lunch in a lovely restaurant.

After lunch we visited a tannery and saw many items of leather for sale.

We returned to the riad mid-afternoon to cool off and prepare for our home hosted dinner. We were divided up into groups of four or five and were picked up by a family. I went with ” new people”, Norma, Andrea and the couple from New Mexico who have traveled with OAT 58 times. He’s 88 and still flies planes!

We walked for a very long time, about 25 minutes, through back alleyways, all through the kasbah. I began to wonder how to get back in the dark but was told that we’d be driven back. Our hostess was Mariam, the daughter of Maria, who was in the living room. We were served a feast, the traditional meal to break the fast after Ramadan. We started out with a kind of lentil soup, served with dates and another kind of sesame sweet, followed by a huge lamb tagine, and fruit for desert. I told them that I was recovering from stomach distress and couldn’t eat much, and was regarded with scorn. Our hostess kept encouraging others to EAT! I didn’t take photos, unfortunately. After dinner, we were dressed up in fancy clothing!

Today we visited Volubilis, spectacular Roman ruins that rival Pompei and Epheuses. We had a nice lunch in a neighboring village. I’m runnung out of time and space but will include one more image

The ruins among the ruins..

Dinner calls I didn’t change. Others did. Oh, well..You see my priorities.

Yes, this gentleman from Fes ( note spelling!) is wearing a fez.

We had a nice bus ride from Rabat to Fes, and learned that we would once again stay in a riad, or guest house. We couldn’t believe it when we saw it because Mostafa told us to lower our expectations. We were staying in a palace!

This guesthouse was built originally in the 1600s and underwent an extensive reconstruction, which took sixteen years to complete. The result is a twenty room architectural gem with awe- inspiring public spaces.

We enjoyed lunch in an alcove of the riad while we were waiting for our keys.

As it was quite warm, we were able to settle in for a bit and had our driving / walking tour with local guide Mohammed in the late afternoon.

We were driven to two parts of the city to get a panoramic view of each. We also toured a ceramics factory to see how various items were made. One member of our group bought a tagine set to be shipped home.

Since we would be spending much of tomorrow in the markets of the Old City, we wandered the contempoary city and had a light dinner in a cute cafe. My chicken/ phyllo dish covered with cinnamon and sugar was delicious.

Several of us finished out the evening upstairs on the terrace with a libation of choice. Selling alcohol used to be forbidden but post Covid, establishments have learned that it an easy way to make money, and Western tourists demand it. There is red wine, white wine and beer. Ann and I both had a beer but I shared mine with Mark, to protect my funny tummy.

I am perfectly fine today.

We met in one of the hotel meeting rooms to meet the new people who joined us in Rabat for the main trip. Mostafa also explained our itinerary and logisitics. One rule: no discussion of American politics Apparently two people almost came to blows in a political ”discussion.” We’re on vacation. Let’s leave that behind.

A new couple from our group has been on 58 OAT trips! They continue to be quite fit and the fellow, an Army veteran, still flies a plane . His wife is Native American. I don’t have their names yet.

We got on the bus and did a driving/ walking tour of Rabat. The first stop was the Royal Palace

After seeing the Royal Palace, we visit many ancient monuments, such as the Chellah and the Hassan Tower, where guards protect the remnants of a royal maussoleum. . We go to the casbah to see the beautiful views of the Atlantic.

The new opera house and new roads show that the city of Rabat is progressing nicely into the 21st century. The opera house, known as the Grand Theatre of Rabat, was designed by Zaha Hadid Rchitects, who also designed the coffee shop at the Serpentine in Kensington Gardens, which we visited last week. Her style is very distinctive.

We had lunch near our hotel and spent a bit of time at the contemporary museum near by Our Welcome Dinner was served in a beautiful restaurant in the medina.

I apologize for the scantiness of this post. I would love to expound in depth about these monuments if you have the time and inclination, google them for more details. We are currently in a beautiful, traditional riad in Fes and thogh the architecture is magnificdnt, it is difficult to see and the internet keeps fading on me.

I am feeling much better. Thanks for your concern.

I leave you with this Moroccan cat, who is helping out in the kitchen.

I felt a little queasy and nauseous yesterday even though we all have been taking precautions in our food choices. I didn’t eat dinner and got sick about midnight. I had tea and toast for breakfast and only did the first part of the morning walking tour. I’m glad I did

Within a three minute walk from the hotel is St Andrews, and even though it is Anglican and part of the diocese of Gibralter, eight miles across the Mediterranean, it is a very ecumenical congregation. The graveyard is filled with expats who spent their lives here.

We signed the condolence book for Queen Elizabeth.

I went back to the hotel to rest for an hour while the others walked in the area. I was picked up by the van driver at noon and took some great pictures from the van.. We met up with the others and went to the train station.

I wish that I’d taken more pictures of the inside of the station because it was ultra modern, with lots of restaurants, including McDonald’s and Starbuck’s. Ann and I joined Mostafa for lunch. I had mint tea and a cheese sandwich.

Our train trip took an hour and a half and then we were in Rabat. Our van driver drove the luggage. His drive took four hours.

We are picked up by our driver with our luggage and go to the centrally located Le Diwan hotel We meet in the lobby for a stroll of the neighborhood

We meet up with some young Moroccan kids who discuss with us life in the country and hopes for the future About the king, one says, ” He’s better than the last one!”

We return to our hotel to unpack, rest up a bit and prepare for dinner. I’m eating lightly.

I didn’t photograph the main course fish dish. I ate only a little bit of it. We didn’t eat the fruit and the soup was a puréed vegetable. The almond cake was delicious but rich so I only had a few bites.

Six more travelers arrived for our main tour which officially begins tomorrow. Two are from Colorado and four are from New Mexico but they’re not traveling together. We will do our tour of Rabat tomorrow and have our welcome dinner at a fancy restaurant in the kasbah.

More to come

The name of this city evokes the exotic Come with me to the kasbah! Or is that Algiers?

Our journey began this morning as we climbed in our trusty van and rode through the town of Chefchaouen. The modern city has people going through their daily routine. The little girl is waiting fot her ride to school.

Note to family: yes, there’s a soft drink called Hawai and it’s actually quite tasty..

We are definitely looking at a country in transition, as spacious new roads replace the old, yet there are still people who walk or ride a donkey to work.
This third world country is in the process of development and today’s journey took us to the other extreme: the super rich.

Who are the super rich of Morocco? According to Mostafa, they are politicians and drug dealers. As we drove along the coast, the villas reminded me of the posh estates on Maui or the Big Island.

We stop to see a very new and modern container port, where cars from France are brought to Morocco. Mostafa is delighted at the progress of his country.

We eat a late lunch at a lovely restaurant with seaside views.

We arrive in Tangiers and do a driving tour of the city. This is the spot where the Mediterranean sea meets the Atlantic Ocean!

We check into our hotel, which suffered through the pandemic but has a great bathroom, wonderful shower, very comfortable bed and a large balcony with a view!

And as night falls, this weary traveler settles in to rest up for another day. Tomorrow we travel by train to Rabat and we eight travelers join up with six others on the main tour. Our pre-tour has ended .

We paused for a picture before leaving for the UNESCO World Heritage city of Tetouan, looking rested and ready to tackle new adventures. I didn’t take a photo at the end of our journey, as we straggled out of the bus Thank goodness for air conditioned buses

We saw an Andulusian white village, a modern city with the Royal Palace, and a market with artisans honing their crafts and a Jewish synagogue..all in one place.

This first city view could be in Andalucia, in southern Spain, but it not. Many Spaniards came here in the 1500s to reconstruct their lives.

We strolled the streets of the modern city, passed the Royal Palace, on our way to the winding streets of the medina, where vendors were selling foods and services.

This store sells the modest school uniforms you see here, in different colors.

We tasted prickly pears, which was a real treat, as we’re only allowed peeled or cooked fruits or veggies

We visit a small synagogue, visit the Jewish Moroccan husband and wife caretakers and discuss the life of a Jewish Moroccan in a Muslim country. We’re told that the two cultures work side by side without conflict, having lived together in peace for 500 years, and that there’s a strong sense of community within the two cultures. There is a police presence on the street to guard against any unforeseen occurence. Unfortunately the population of Jews doesn’t support a congregation Why? As with all religions in the States, attendance is down. This couple showed us the torah and the oven for making matzo.

We wandered along the alleyways once more, on our way to a most unusual school.

As you can see, the buildings in Morocco are decorated with elaborate designs.To keep the arts alive, students are instructed how to craft these intricate designs in different media. Even though school started last week, the students aren’t yet ready to show us their work, so Mostafa showed us examples from past student work.

The work of the instructors is displayed in one of the exhibit rooms The school buildings are a work of art

After all this activity, we were tired and hungry, so we had a fish lunch at a restaurant with a view of the sea, and took the scenic route back to Chefchaouen.

There was time for a swim in the pool and we had our final dinner at our beautiful riad. I will miss this place!

Linda from Florida wishes you a good night!

Today was a long travel day. By the time we arrived at our hotel in Tangier, we heard the news of the death of Queen Elizabeth II. Even though it is sad, it was plain that she was failing. I’m listening to the TV coverage on France24, which seems like the only channel available.

I’ll try to catch up tomorrow morning. It’ll be a quiet day.

Another day! We had breakfast in the lovely dining room and I ordered scrambled eggs. What a treat! After the meal, I took photos of the dining room and other picturesque spots around the riad. We left at 9:30 for our visit to the country.

We met and walked to the other side of town to pick up our bus.

It took us about an hour and a half to arrive at our destination.

Mohammed showed us how to make mint tea The man of the household has this responsibility. After tea we went to the garden to pick vegetables for our lunch.

Mohammed is wearing the traditional hat for those who live in the area.

Once back inside, the cooking begins with several volunteers.

This couple met at a religious festival and it was love at first sight, according to Mohammed. The second time they met was when he offered a proposal of marriage to her family. He built their modest home with the help of family They now have two daughters. Their life is a simple one, blessed by Allah. The fruits and vegetables from their garden provide income. The OAT people also provide them income for hosting travelers like us.

The girls seem very independent and happy. The oldest one went to her second day of first grade when we were there. She came home from school at noon. .There are eight students in the combo first and second grade class. The village provides education through high school, but students must move to a bigger city for any other post- secondary training, such as university or trade school.

We returned to our hotel mid afternoon for a bit of free time and I washed my hair, a long overdue task! What an exhausting ordeal!

At 5:00 we had a lecture by Fatima, who told us about life as a Muslim woman. She has a BA in English and an MA in tourism. Unfortunately I did not get her photo.

She discussed the role of women in today’s society.. The country is very progressive with birth control and offers abortions as needed for rape or incest. Her views seemed more liberal than Mostafa’s views but both admitted that their young King was very modern and that Morocco served as a role model for more conservative Muslim countries.

Several group members climbed the trail at 6:30 to watch sunset from the top of the hill , but I stayed, did some retail therapy, people / cat watching and chatted with a young artist I liked his work and bought some magnets from him..

I returned to my room to edit photos and see the sun set over the pool.

At 8:00 we left for a surprise home visit! Mostafa’s in-laws live in town, and his wife and baby were there, so we stopped by for mint tea, treats, and a chat.

The two blondes are both Lindas – Linda from Florida with the black capris and Linda from Windsor, CA in the jeans. Both are traveling solo and are a delight!
The father- in- law is making tea with Karen and Dave from Delaware.

What a day! To end the evening Ann and I finished off our first bottle of wine on my balcony over the pool.

It’s now 6:35 am and my alarm is set for 7:00 We leave at 8:30 for an optional tour of Tetouan. We’ll be having lunch gazing at the ocean, we’ve been told.

Our road trip from Casablanca was by freeway, which isn’t free, but there were many miles covered on local roads. Here are some people I encountered on our journey:

Time to get up! We will explore the village more and go to a farm for lunch

Welcome to Morocco!