Right Bank, Left Bank, All Around the Town

I woke up refreshed after my easy holiday Monday and was ready to go – but where? I checked on a museum exhibit that interested me, the Boticelli exhibit at the beautiful Jacquemart-André museum, once a home, but tickets were sold out until mid- month. The Jeu de Paume museum at the Tuileries Gardens had an exhibit of photography from New York’s Museum of Modern Art, so I thought it would be a nice walk. I also wanted to find French onion soup! I remembered a place where I enjoyed it in the Odéon section on the Left Bank. I also wanted to visit the Medici fountain at the Luxembourg Gardens. The weather was nice so I thought it would be a good day to stroll the Seine.

Starting at the Place de la Madeleine, I would go to the Tuileries to see the exhibit, then walk along the Seine, cross over to the Left Bank, find Saint-Germain des Prés, then go east to the Odéon section for the restaurant. After the restaurant it’s a straight shot to the Luxembourg Gardens. Easy.

But then I’ll have to return. I’ll figure that out as I go.

Step one: go to the Jeu de Paume. The exhibit was small and not overwhelming. I enjoyed it. It didn’t take long.

Step two : Now I walk the gardens on my way to the river.

Step three: I walk the river. It’s nice to see that some of the bouquinistes are open. These booksellers have their treasures in locked boxes attached to the river, a long tradition.

As you can plainly see, the tour boats are packed on this sunny day.

I cross the river at the Pont Neuf. The “ new bridge” is actually the oldest bridge in Paris, then retraced my steps a bit to pass by the Institut de France, a section with narrow winding streets filled with small artisan shops and galleries. There was not a café to be found! I was getting tired. I needed to stop and rest.

I spotted one and got a seat in between two sets of people. Relief!

Here I am, squished in between the German fellow and significant other on my right and the French lady with her family on my left. Neither lit up until after I sat down. I had some second-hand smoke along with my Coke Zero. I do think that California and Hawaii have the fewest smokers in the US. Just can’t get used to it here. Of course, after I stood up and walked a short block, the street opened up and I was in the center of St-Germain-des-Prés, literally surrounded by cafes. Go figure! I just got to step four.

This quarter is well known for being the center of the Existential philosophical movement in the 40s and 50s, with Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir being its main proponents. It’s also home to a great deal of academia: the School of Fine Arts – Ecole des Beaux-Arts – as well as various sections of the University of Paris are here.

Its center is flanked by the church, formerly an abbey. It’s a very busy and lively scene. The café culture there is also well known as the place to see and be seen. Les Deux Magots, Brasserie Lipp, Café de Flore and le Procope are among the places where those in the know flock.

Unfortunately, my hair is in great need of refreshing. I got it done today. Oh, well..chatted with nice folks from Mexico and we took each other’s photos.

Step five: I arrive at the Place de l’ Odéon, looking for my restaurant.
Good news: it’s there, but renovated. The charm is gone. So is the French onion soup. I preservere. I’m starving. There must be something on the menu for me.

There was and it was delicious. I also had a little window area, nicely socially distanced, so I could see all the street action as I ate.

Step six: I go to the Medici fountain at the Luxembourg Garden. It’s an easy stroll, I know, and I also pass my friend Marty’s favorite hotel where he and his wife Sandy spent many happy hours.

Step seven: I visit the Medici fountain. Marie de Medici was the wife of Henry IV and later his widow and regent of King Louis XIII. It was built around 1630 and was moved here in 1864-66. Whenever I visit it, the landscapers change it for the season and I try to see it when I’m here because it’s so delightful.

I retrace my steps and try to decide how to get back. Bus? Metro? Walk? You’ve got to be kidding. I spy a row of taxis.

I jump in a taxi and head back, but not all the way back. I stop at La Durée for dessert: a decaf coffee and a coffee macaron. What better way to end the day in Paris than with one of my favorite pastries?

It was a short walk back to the apartment.
How many steps? 17,412. Of course it took all day. I was home before 7:00 pm. My fancy new iPhone 11 won’t tell me how many miles it is. Can someone help me?

Hope you enjoyed coming along with me for the day!